randombio.com | home repair notes Saturday, Feb 02, 2019 How to flatten crinkled pages in a bookIf an expensive book gets wet, it can usually be saved. Just don't use a clothes iron. |
I was reading a book outside one cold winter afternoon when the wind suddenly blew some snow onto the book. Before I could brush it off, the snow melted and the water soaked into the pages, making them crinkly. Here's how to fix that.
Disclaimer: I am not an expert on paper. If you know of a better way to flatten paper, feel free to let me know.
For smaller books, you can use smaller plates and substitute a vise for the clamps. Use the strongest vise available. I can attest that both methods work. The trick is to put heavy pressure on all parts of the page; otherwise, only part of the page will be flattened and you'll have to repeat. The results are never perfect and some of the crinkling will eventually come back.
A clothes iron can remove some (but not all) of the crinkles, but it also dries the pages too much, changing the quality of the paper or making it glossy. It will also accelerate oxidation, which turns the pages yellow and brittle. If the book was printed by a laser printer, a clothes iron will melt the ink, creating a smear on the page.
Conclusion: Don't read a book outdoors while it's snowing.
Paper becomes crinkly when it absorbs water unevenly. Logically, then, another way to flatten it would be to add water. I tested this, and it does work, but it would be challenging to flatten an entire book this way.
This works reasonably well, though the surface is rougher than the original. Oh, I almost forgot, make sure the page was printed with waterproof ink before starting.
You might argue that it would be a lot easier just to throw the piece of paper away and buy a new one. But if the page is valuable that might not be possible. And some of us are really cheap.
Book pages turn yellow over time because of an acid-catalyzed chemical reaction between oxygen and lignin, a component of mechanically pulped paper. Lignin contains phenols that oxidize in air over time. This produces organic acids which results in an autocatalytic reaction. In the past, the pulping process used strong acids, and traces of acid remained. But even modern acid-free paper will form acids when in contact with oxygen. Lignin is the main culprit, but cellulose in paper also creates acetic, formic, lactic, and oxalic acids as it oxidizes with age. Nitrogen and sulfur oxides in the air can also cause oxidation, as does heating.
Today, archival quality paper is treated with pH buffers to neutralize acid as it forms. Paper is also often coated using a process that may use weak acids, so technically it is not acid-free. The coating is typically a fluorescent dye that makes the page appear bright white, and improves printability. This paper could still be suitable for archiving as long as it does not contain lignin.
The lifetime of paper that is not yet yellow can be greatly prolonged by a process called mass deacidification. An interesting early method of deacidification used diethylzinc. Unfortunately, diethylzinc explodes violently on contact with air or water. A NASA deacidification plant burned catastrophically when water was pumped into a chamber that unknowingly contained hundreds of pounds of diethylzinc. Diethylzinc also doesn't work on microfilm, destroying it.
I work with diethylzinc in the lab, and it really is pyrophoric and toxic. It ignites spontaneously when exposed to air, and reacts violently with water. I strongly recommend not to try this at home.
feb 02, 2019